Of orangutans and dozy dragons: searching for wildlife in the Indonesian Archipelago

Indonesia’s islands are home to an incredible diversity of wildlife. Words and photos by Lauryn Ishak

In pre-pandemic January, and on one of the last travel assignments that I photographed this year, I went back to my roots in Indonesia to photograph a wildlife story — a search for the nation's endemic species with independent tour guides. I crisscrossed the 17,000 islands of the Indonesian Archipelago, from Flores to Java to Central Kalimantan within the span of five days.

I returned to places that barely had any infrastructure 10 years ago, that are now popular tourist spots. I also discovered a few sites off the beaten path, that are trying to navigate the tricky intersection of modern tourism and conservation. The changes have been welcomed, but they are also worrying. It’s great to see Indonesia progressing and constructing much-needed infrastructure for its population, but at such a speed and with poor enforcement of regulation there are already signs of overtourism and environmental damage. Over the course of the trip I was encouraged to meet so many people, both young and old, who were passionate about the preservation of wildlife and their habitats. They are well-informed and are actively campaigning for a more sustainable future.

Sunset and snorkelling in the clear sea off Komodo National Park

Heading to Kanawa Island in Komodo National Park

Early on in the trip I headed to Rinca and Komodo islands, home to some of the last wild populations of Komodo dragons. These are the heaviest lizards on the planet, reaching up to three metres long and 150 kilograms. It is estimated that there are just 5,700 Komodo dragons in the wild, and they are listed as both endangered and protected. They are mostly found sleeping, but are also fast and agile once up and running. Unsurprisingly, it isn’t possible to observe the dragons up-close in the wild without a guide, and without straying from designated routes, but it’s still an awe-inspiring – and slightly nerve-wracking – experience.

A guide at the Komodo National Park

A Komodo dragon lounges by the rangers’ station in Komodo National Park

I returned to Flores, where I met Samuel Rabenak, an independent birding guide. We drove to a forest near the fishing town of Labuan Bajo, and began our bird watching expedition. Samuel was very familiar with the forest and its birdlife, and he carried around a small speaker connected to a cellphone with dozens of recordings of bird calls. We managed to spot quite a few birds in the short time that we had, including a white-rumped kingfisher, and the others in my group caught a glimpse of a Flores scops owl – one of the rarest birds in the world.

Samuel Rabenak, professional bird watcher, on Flores Island

In Borneo’s Central Kalimantan province, I spent two days on a houseboat with the founder of Orangutan Green Tours, Herry Roustaman, and one of his guides, Tiyo, cruising the rivers of the Tanjung Puting National Park. We visited camps where orangutans are fed once a day. These are not rehabilitation camps, so the majority of the orangutans that visit are either completely or semi-wild. I was very fortunate to encounter a wild young orangutan on the last day of my journey, as we chugged back to the harbour. He sat calmly on a branch on the bank of the river, minding his business and chewing his food. It was a magical moment.

Orangutans in Borneo's Tanjung Puting National Park. Acres of Borneo’s rainforests are flattened every day for industrial palm oil plantations.

Chugging along the Sekonyer River in a traditional houseboat, or 'klotok' - named after the sound that the engine makes

Hiking through the Tanjung Puting National Park

Sunset on the Sekonyer River; Proboscis monkeys in Tanjung Puting National Park

Crimson skies on the Sekonyer River, in the Tanjung Puting National Park

For more information about the Tanjung Puting National Park and the Orangutan Green Tours, head to www.orangutangreentours.com, and to read more about the threats facing Bornean orangutans, click here.